Modeling Lenticular Wave Box

I did some more work with modeling a project Nicole and I worked on last semester in Rhino. After getting the structure set up using faces created from curves, I exported to illustrator and added dotted lines and tabs and cut it in a much smaller scale in lenticular on the vinyl cutter. I tested a new method for joining pieces by fusing with a soldering iron. You just touch the tip to the edge and remove and repeat. It works fairly well but I didn’t take into account how brittle the lenticular is, and it snapped at such a small scale. I think for next week, I will try to create a dodecahedron lenticular shell and fuse it with the new soldering method. (This has to be done outside, it produces poisonous fumes.

3D Modeling and Final Project Brainstorm

This week I decided to learn 3D modeling with Rhino. I downloaded the 90 day trial and went through many basic tutorials. I modeled part of an enclosure for an led panel which will have vinyl cut lenticular on top of it. For my final project, I think I would like to continue to improve my 3D modeling skills and create a couple models that will be ready for the 4-axis mill when we have access to the shop. These models will accompany models for 3D lenticular lens structures which I will convert to 2D surfaces and vinyl cut.

Vinyl Cutting: Platonic Solid Lenticular Lenses

This week I did a lot of experimenting with vinyl cutting lenticular lenses. I first cut a partial box from some scrap that I had from last semester when I was working with large arrays of leds behind lenticular lenses.

IMG_4503.jpg
IMG_4515.jpg

Blade Settings:

I then tried to experiment with different cameo blade settings only to realize that after cutting lenticular, my blade wont reset below 5. Here is a test piece I cut with different depths before realizing that the auto blade was not consistently adjusting to a specific height. I continued to cut lenticular using a depth setting of 1 which shows up as 6 on auto blade (usually). The force is 25, speed 2, and 2 passes. These settings cut a path deep enough into the lenticular that it can be peeled apart along the cut line and folded on the dotted lines without breaking.


The Platonic Solids:

My first attempt was a dodecahedron (using templatemaker.nl), the cutting went fine, since the blade cant cut through the vinyl even on the greatest depth and pressure, the scoring method seems to be the best that I can do with this blade. I think I need to try the craft blade. The edges were somewhat difficult to glue together, I tried to use superglue on the tabs but that didn’t hold, hot glue worked but looks like a total mess. After constructing the solid, I left one flap open to insert lights into. There was an interesting effect with a led bulb inside, it melted on a fluorescent light almost immediately.

The platonic solid lens worked wonders on top of an LED array so I decided to make more of them to use up all the scrap material. Taping the edges works a little better than the glue methods I have tried but it changes the lens effect and therefore is especially noticeable. I am still trying to figure out the best way to hide the edge connections of the solids.

IMG_4536.jpg
IMG_4538.jpg

Week 9: Vinyl Cutting & Online Fabrication Services

Vinyl Cutting:

This week I received a Silhouette Cameo 4 vinyl cutter. I set up the software following the included instructions then created some stickers. I started with a train because that is what my 27 year old sister requested for some reason. I imported a dxf file created in illustrator into silhouette studio, set its dimensions and cut settings. After choosing the material, the software knows how deep / forcefully the cut should be. The machine auto sets the blade height.

Screen Shot 2020-04-06 at 2.47.04 PM.png
Screen Shot 2020-04-06 at 2.46.46 PM.png

Next I adhered the vinyl sticker paper to the sticky cutting mat and fed it into the machine then sent the file to be cut. The sticker came out perfectly on the first try.

After that I decided to stay on brand and create a dichroic Macbook pro detail. It took a couple of tries to get the dimensions exactly right but I was able to apply the sticker to the led backlight apple logo creating a pretty fun effect.

Later in the week I experimented with vinyl cutting thicker material, testing a design on cardstock then using lenticular lens. The blade couldn’t cut all the way through but ended up being deep enough to rip off the edges on the sold lines and fold on dotted lines.

Online Fabrication:

This week I created a machinable part and got some online quotes for fabrication in different materials. It is .5 inches high and 3.25 inches in diameter. There are two pockets and a cutout in the center and around the outside.

Screen Shot 2020-04-05 at 4.22.20 PM.png

Below are some fabrication quotes for the piece in different materials and quantities from 3D Hubs. Compared to the quotes from eMachine and Protolabs, 3D hubs is by far the cheapest option.

Screen Shot 2020-04-05 at 3.40.13 PM.png
Screen Shot 2020-04-06 at 11.26.15 AM.png
Screen Shot 2020-04-05 at 3.40.20 PM.png
Screen Shot 2020-04-06 at 11.28.02 AM.png

Quotes for same part in brass and titanium, 3D Hubs is 1/2 or less the price of Protolabs.

Screen Shot 2020-04-05 at 3.42.30 PM.png
Screen Shot 2020-04-05 at 3.43.04 PM.png
Screen Shot 2020-04-06 at 11.29.36 AM.png
Screen Shot 2020-04-06 at 11.29.46 AM.png

Midterm: CNC Project

1.jpg

For my midterm project, I created a table lamp for one of the phone booths. The lamp illuminates the table providing task lighting, similarly bright to the table lamp that was there before my lamp. The led strips are 12V bright white 5730 Leds, 72LED/M .5W/LED (similar to this product). The lamp has a dimmer switch to turn it on and increase / decrease the brightness. The top of the lamp includes a dichroic plexiglass accent. There is a channel for the light to pass behind the dichroic illuminating the material and creating a multicolored gradient from the point of view of the observer, as well as refracted colored light on the wall behind the lamp. I created all of the parts of the lamp on the CNC machine. Overall the piece came out much bigger than I imagined it, I should have cut it out of cardboard first. The lamp head was too heavy for the arm to support without bending so I added a laser cut clear acrylic support.


Pictures of the base and arm construction. I used the same joinery from last week. After cutting the base and arm, I ran it through the table router to round the edge.

Below are pictures of the top piece which holds the diffusion acrylic and led strip, at this point the arm was still strong enough to hold the top up without support.

I fed the wire through the pocket in the arm up to the led strip. There is a tension fit piece covering the wire pocket.

The last piece was cut and put on top of the piece that contains the leds. There is a dichroic strip which is illuminated by light passing through a channel in the top piece. I had to laser cut another support arm for the top because the top was too heavy.

3.jpg

Week 5 Skill Builder: CNC Joinery

This week I tested out a joint design that I am hoping to use to connect the base to arm and arm to head of a lamp I am designing for light and interactivity. I decided to go with a dogbone design created to hide as much of the joint as possible. The vertical piece of wood slides into the base from the bottom using the weight of the base to hold everything in place. Miraculously, a tolerance of .01 ended up resulting in a very satisfying tension fit where the base needs to be pushed down with force onto the vertical piece but cant be pulled apart without lots of back and forth wiggling. The end result includes just a little bit of empty space at the side of the joint. In the next version, I want the outside edge of lamp arm to be flush with the base perimeter. I am planning on insetting the bottom of the arm and using the routing table to chamfer the edges of the arm so that it can slide in without having any empty space visible in the joint. Additionally, the joint is much larger than necessary. I designed this with a .25 inch bit but it can be reduced to a .125 inch bit with the dogbones smaller and closer together.

Week 4 Skill Builder: Vectorworks, MasterCam, And CNC Routing

This week I created a test plate with dichroic tiles arranged in different configurations to do some testing for a light and interactivity project (making a light fixture). I first created a file in vectorworks with pockets and cutouts for insetting tiles and letting light pass through. Then imported the file into mastercam, set up the pocket and profile parameters for a 1/8th inch bit, then generated g-code and saved it to a usb.

Next, I inserted the USB into the CNC, screwed my plate into the spoilboard, fit the bit into the collet, zeroed the axis, put the vacuum cover over the bit, and cut the piece.

The piece came out exactly as expected, although it had some burrs that needed to be sanded off. I always use the standard plywood feeds and speeds for PVC, I am sure I could get a cleaner finish tweaking the values a bit or using a finishing pass but it is really quick to sand. I was able to gain the information I was looking for for my light fixture design from the test piece.

Week 3 Skill Builder: Desktop CNC Project

This week I worked on insetting parts. I decided to go with a spiral which turned out to be a choice I regretted due to the time it takes to cut a spiral with a CNC. The path is almost as long as the full volume of a shape and you have to multiply that by two when you inset pieces.

I started off with vectorworks, creating a spiral, then I used the filet tool to expand the corners so that a .125 inch bit could fit into all the pathways. Next I offset the inner spiral .01 from the spiral channel as well as the outer circle .01 from the pvc circle that the “chip” gets inset into.

Next I had to do some sanding to get the acrylic with dichroic applied to it to match the height of the black acrylic that it is inlayed into as I forgot to account for the thickness of the film in my machine settings. Even if I did remember, it would have been quite a task to get it to line up exactly as I would have needed to use thicker black acrylic or take off some of the back of the acrylic with the film applied to it. I taped the dichroic spiral to the bottom of the pvc mount and sanded it down. Next I applied acrylic weld and found out that my tolerance of .01 was too high and there was a noticeable gap between the acrylic and dichroic. Luckily it is not visible when the “chip” is inset into the pvc base.

Week 2 Skill Builder: Milling Acrylic

This week during class I milled a pice of acrylic into an oval disc with a star shaped pocket. Instructions at bottom of post. After I was comfortable with the mill, I created a base / enclosure for an led candle that I built for light and interactivity.

IMG_3576.jpg

Instructions for star oval acrylic:

Step 1: File setup in Illustrator. Below is a picture of the combined pocket and profile. I saved twice, each one with just one of the paths so that the Bantam software separated the vectors into two jobs.

Step 2-6: Import into Bantam, measure acrylic height, set up material size and placement in software, scale and place illustrator image inside of material bounds in software, clean OtherMill bed, put double sided tape on acrylic and press onto bed firmly.

Step 7-11 : Zero x and y axis using switches, move bit over empty bed, zero z axis. Next, I engraved the pocket for the star, after that I cut out the profile of the oval. I accidentally set the milling tools to 1/8th Flat End Mill instead of 1/8th so it went too fast but it turned out not to be an issue with the final piece.


Screen Shot 2020-02-06 at 1.06.12 PM.png

Week 1 Skill Builder: Routing

This week I worked with the router to make a base for an led fade project for Light And Interactivity. I first cut a square piece of wood on the miter saw then rounded the edges with a round-over bit (2003).

Next I took a straight cut bit and created a pocket cutout across the vertical and horizontal axis of the base.

Lastly I drilled a hole through the center for the led and a hole for a push button.